{"id":91626,"date":"2026-03-20T18:50:00","date_gmt":"2026-03-20T17:50:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/cavall-i-landrona-cuina-tradicional-feta-avantguarda\/"},"modified":"2026-03-20T19:54:51","modified_gmt":"2026-03-20T18:54:51","slug":"cavall-i-landrona-cuina-tradicional-feta-avantguarda","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/ca-es\/cavall-i-landrona-cuina-tradicional-feta-avantguarda\/","title":{"rendered":"Cavall i l\u2019Androna, cuina tradicional feta avantguarda"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

Casa meua \u00e9s casa teua fa parada en un restaurant on l’ordinari es converteix en extraordinari<\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n

El programa Casa meua \u00e9s casa teua d’Els Magazinos s’endinsa en la primavera fent parada en un restaurant on cada plat fa gust de territori i el men\u00fa t\u00e9 un regust de mem\u00f2ria. Cavall i l\u2019Androna, un negoci familiar regentat per Jos\u00e9 Antonio Tur Ballester i els seus fills Sa\u00fal i \u00c1lex, tira m\u00e0 de la tradici\u00f3 i del receptari de la Marina Alta per a oferir una cuina neta i senzilla, transparent, ens atrevir\u00edem a dir. Aqu\u00ed no valen ostentacions i artificis, per\u00f2 s\u00ed les idees fresques i renovades. Darrere d’aquest saber fer i d’aquesta forma particular i honesta d’entendre la cuina s’amaga gaireb\u00e9 mig segle d’experi\u00e8ncia i la capacitat de saber adaptar-se als canvis i a la demanda.<\/p>\n\n

Jos\u00e9 Antonio Tur Ballester, natural de Pedreguer, tenia nom\u00e9s 16 anys quan va entrar en contacte amb l’hostaleria. Ho va fer a D\u00e9nia, en una coneguda cafeteria que obria les seves portes en 1983 al carrer Marqu\u00e8s de Campo, El Punt. Va tenir a un gran mestre, com ell diu, Pepe Ribes \u2018el del Neutro\u2019, encarregat del local. \u201cAll\u00f2 era alguna cosa m\u00e9s que una cafeteria, pr\u00e0cticament no hi havia cap establiment com aquell, est\u00e0vem en el centre neur\u00e0lgic de la ciutat i per all\u00ed passava tothom\u201d, recorda. \u201cAquesta va ser la meva escola -afegeix-, on em vaig formar professional i personalment\u201d.<\/p>\n\n

Va ser durant aquest temps quan va con\u00e8ixer a la seva esposa, Sonia Forn\u00e9s Gilabert. Junts, en 1998, van decidir obrir un negoci propi i emprendre un nou cam\u00ed. Va n\u00e9ixer aix\u00ed el Bar Covi, al carrer Sagunt, on servien men\u00fas del dia, esmorzars, tapes, entrepans\u2026 Era el t\u00edpic bar de barri, un lloc que aviat es va convertir en punt de trobada per al ve\u00efnat i on, com b\u00e9 sap Jos\u00e9 Antonio, \u201ces feien moltes hores\u201d.<\/p>\n\n

Des que va comen\u00e7ar fins ara, Jos\u00e9 Antonio ha vist com ha anat evolucionant l’hostaleria, \u201cperqu\u00e8 tot ha canviat molt\u201d. Res de barres sembrades de pinyols d’oliva i tovallons de paper pel terra. De les jornades interminables, sense tot just dies lliures ni vacances, s’ha anat passant als horaris i descansos regulats. Per no parlar dels locals sense fum i els canvis en els gustos i la demanda. \u201cHe viscut i he participat de tota aquesta transici\u00f3\u201d, explica un home que sap el que \u00e9s no tenir cap diumenge lliure ni temps per a dedicar a la fam\u00edlia.<\/p>\n\n

Amb l’ajuda de la seva dona, sempre disposada a tirar una m\u00e0 -\u201cel comod\u00ed de la fam\u00edlia\u201d, fan broma els fills-, va aconseguir definir el nou model de negoci i, a poc a poc, guanyar en qualitat de vida. Aviat s’implicarien tamb\u00e9 els fills, que en m\u00e9s d’alguna ocasi\u00f3 havien tirat ja algun cable. No va ser una decisi\u00f3 adoptada a la lleugera. Sabien el que feien i el que volien.<\/p>\n\n

El major, Sa\u00fal, t\u00e9 clar que l’hostaleria \u201c\u00e9s un model de vida, m\u00e9s que un negoci\u201d. \u201cO t’apassiona i saps i acceptes all\u00f2 a qu\u00e8 haur\u00e0s de renunciar o la detestes\u201d, indica. Ells formen part del primer grup, dels qui la viuen amb passi\u00f3.<\/p>\n\n

Jos\u00e9 Antonio i Sa\u00fal, que es va formar com a sommelier i en cocteleria, atenen la sala i \u00c1lex \u00e9s el cap de cuina. Va cursar estudis de formaci\u00f3 professional en l’IES Maria Ibars i a Xest. En les pr\u00e0ctiques, es va acostar a cuiners de prestigi, alguns que anaven encara a la recerca de l’estrella Michelin. \u201c\u00c9s millor treballar amb ells quan encara no estan tan a dalt per\u00f2 ho estan intentant\u201d, assenyala el germ\u00e0 menut, \u201cestan m\u00e9s motivats i busquen m\u00e9s la perfecci\u00f3\u201d. Va treballar amb Bego\u00f1a Rodrigo i amb Susi D\u00edaz i, m\u00e9s a prop de casa, amb Jos\u00e9 Manuel L\u00f3pez en Peix i Brases i amb Bruno Ru\u00edz en el Aticcook. El seu primer repte personal va ser participar en el concurs de cuina creativa de la gamba roja. I ho va aconseguir. Amb 23 anys, es va colar entre els vuit finalistes en l’edici\u00f3 de 2022.<\/p>\n\n

Si en Cavall i l\u2019Androna tenen una cosa ben present \u00e9s que en la cuina \u201cles possibilitats no s\u00f3n limitades\u201d. \u201cSi s’elabora amb afecte i amor\u201d, donant-ho tot, \u201c\u00e9s tan digna una bona torrada com un men\u00fa de cinc passes\u201d.<\/p>\n\n

La seva cuina ha evolucionat \u201camb criteri propi\u201d i \u00e9s reflex del pas del temps. \u201cJo soc feli\u00e7 cuinant unes llenties, no \u00e9s necessari preparar escumes, aires o esferificaciones, que tamb\u00e9 est\u00e0 b\u00e9, per a estar satisfet amb el que fas\u201d, indica \u00c1lex. \u201cLa cuina tradicional ben feta -afegeix- \u00e9s avantguarda feta vida\u201d.<\/p>\n\n

Per aix\u00f2, la cuina d’aquest restaurant familiar aposta pel producte de temporada i arrelat al territori. \u201cNo volem ser un restaurant gastron\u00f2mic ni busquem sortir en les guies\u201d, aclareix Sa\u00fal, \u201cvolem ser un restaurant amb identitat i on el client se senta com a casa\u201d. El tracte personalitzat i la senzillesa s\u00f3n dues de les seves grans bases. I el millor reconeixement, afegeix, \u201cque el client torne\u201d.<\/p>\n\n

Els arrossos tenen un lloc destacat en els seus men\u00fas, ja siguen els del dia -m\u00e9s curts- o els men\u00fas degustaci\u00f3, que s’adapten a la temporada i es renoven cada dues o tres setmanes.<\/p>\n\n

Aquest arrelament al territori del qual presumeixen es trasllada als esmorzars, amb entrepans cl\u00e0ssics, el del dia i les coques dels dijous. Tamb\u00e9 a la carta de vins, \u201ccurta per\u00f2 que inclou varietats aut\u00f2ctones, com els de gir\u00f3, monastrell, mosacatell, malvesies\u2026\u201d, precisa Sa\u00fal. Els agrada mantenir vives tapes tan de la terra com la sang amb ceba, les manetes, els fetgetss o l’all i pebre -per cert, cada vegada m\u00e9s dif\u00edcils de trobar en els restaurants de la zona-, i saben com convertir \u201cles petites coses ordin\u00e0ries en extraordin\u00e0ries\u201d.<\/p>\n\n

El resultat, clientela fixa no sols entre els ve\u00efns de D\u00e9nia i la Marina Alta. Tamb\u00e9 entre els qui tenen aqu\u00ed la seva segona resid\u00e8ncia. Que, tot siga dit, no s\u00f3n els \u00fanics que mostren curiositat pel nom. \u201cLa nostra mare \u00e9s de Baix la Mar i el nostre avi, que era pescador, ens contava sempre la hist\u00f2ria del cavall i l\u2019androna, les dues pedres situades en la bocana del port que, quan hi havia temporal, obligaven les barques a retardar l’entrada i a esperar fins i tot un dia fora, amb tot el que aix\u00f2 comportava, per a no encallar\u201d, conten els fills. Res a veure amb l’afici\u00f3 del pare pels cavalls, com alguns puguen creure. Eixa \u00e9s una altra hist\u00f2ria.<\/p>\n\n

El men\u00fa del 26 de mar\u00e7, a les 21 h., en el restaurant Cavall i l\u2019Androna: Snacks de benvinguda: cruixent d\u2019espencat farcit de crema de cigrons i bacall\u00e0 a la brasa; i selecci\u00f3 d\u2019embotits artesans de la Marina Alta amb pa casol\u00e0, tomaca de penjar i oli d\u2019oliva verge extra picual; Entrants: crema de p\u00e9sols amb cansalada ib\u00e8rica cruixent, t\u00f2fona negra, sofregit de ceba tendra al xer\u00e8s i ou poch\u00e9; i sepionet de la llotja de D\u00e9nia en pepit\u00f2ria amb \u2018picatostes\u2019 i faves beb\u00e8; Plat principal: galta de vedella estofada al vi Monastrell de la Marina, tim\u00f3 i moniato torrat. Postres: past\u00eds d\u2019ametla de la Marina amb merenga flamejada i confitura de taronja de temporada. Maridatge: cerveses Turia Tostada i Turia Stark la r\u00fabia. Preu: 55\u20ac. Reserves: 96 578 15 70.<\/pre>\n\n
<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Casa meua \u00e9s casa teua fa parada en un restaurant on l’ordinari es converteix en extraordinari El programa…","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":91610,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"csco_display_header_overlay":false,"csco_singular_sidebar":"","csco_page_header_type":"","csco_page_load_nextpost":"","csco_post_video_location":[],"csco_post_video_location_hash":"","csco_post_video_url":"","csco_post_video_bg_start_time":0,"csco_post_video_bg_end_time":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[589,1],"tags":[6532,7147,897,684,1919],"class_list":{"0":"post-91626","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-gastronomia-ca-es","8":"category-sin-categorizar","9":"tag-casa-meua-es-casa-teua","10":"tag-cavall-i-landrona","11":"tag-els-magazinos","12":"tag-gastronomia","13":"tag-restauracio","14":"cs-entry","15":"cs-video-wrap"},"yoast_head":"\nCavall i l\u2019Androna, cuina tradicional feta avantguarda - 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