{"id":88983,"date":"2026-02-15T11:42:30","date_gmt":"2026-02-15T10:42:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/?p=88983"},"modified":"2026-02-13T12:17:09","modified_gmt":"2026-02-13T11:17:09","slug":"el-tresmall-perque-la-cuina-es-una-declaracio-damor","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/ca-es\/el-tresmall-perque-la-cuina-es-una-declaracio-damor\/","title":{"rendered":"El Tresmall, perqu\u00e8 la cuina \u00e9s una declaraci\u00f3 d’amor"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

El programa Casa Meua \u00e9s casa teua<\/em> arrenca l’any enfront de la mar<\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

El Tresmall, el nom del restaurant on Casa meua \u00e9s casa teua<\/em> aterra aquest mes de febrer, fa al\u00b7lusi\u00f3 a un art de pesca amb una tradici\u00f3 molt antiga -el tresmall- que han utilitzat durant segles les embarcacions petites que pescaven enfront d’ell. El seu nom diu molt d’aquest establiment, que va obrir les seues portes en 1997 i al capdavant del qual han estat durant diverses d\u00e8cades Pere Andr\u00e9s i Ana Ses\u00e9. El seu fill Jordi, que com el seu germ\u00e0 Pau pr\u00e0cticament es va criar en el restaurant, dirigeix ara un local que traspua Mediterrani pertot arreu. No sols per l’empla\u00e7ament sin\u00f3 tamb\u00e9 per altres detalls, com el mode de treballar el producte o la manera d’entendre la cuina.<\/div><\/p>\n\n

Jordi Andr\u00e9s ha heretat la passi\u00f3 per la gastronomia dels seus pares. Per\u00f2 la cosa ve de darrere. M\u00e9s aviat \u00e9s una tirada familiar. Els seus avis van fundar en 1974 el restaurant Los Arcos de Pedreguer i el seu pare, metge de professi\u00f3, va estar al capdavant d’aquest conegut local al costat de les seves germanes, Ana Mari i Paqui. M\u00e9s endavant, explica el cap de cuina d’El Tresmall, va posar en marxa el restaurant de la platja al costat d’Arturo Gasquet.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n

Des del primer dia, El Tresmall ha ofert cuina mediterr\u00e0nia i ha seguit la tradici\u00f3 marinera de D\u00e9nia. El producte fresc i de temporada \u00e9s la base d’una carta en la qual no poden faltar el polp sec, la fritada de peix o les cl\u00f2txines. Per no parlar dels arrossos, els suquests i les llandetes. La mar es respira en l’ambient, no sols en la taula. No debades, des de la seua \u00e0mplia terrassa, situada en primera l\u00ednia, les vistes s\u00f3n espectaculars i, alhora, relaxants.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n

Els arrossos<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n

El Tresmall \u00e9s un d’aquests pocs restaurants on encara es pot degustar un arr\u00f2s a banda amb el peix a bandat. Ofereix les dues versions i \u00e9s la m\u00e9s moderna -la de l’arr\u00f2s sense m\u00e9s- la m\u00e9s demandada. A la mateixa altura, quant a elecci\u00f3 per part dels comensals, es troben la fideu\u00e0 i la paella negra. Encara que de paelles, en aquest restaurant saben molt.<\/p>\n\n

Fa uns anys, es van proposar demostrar que el de la paella no \u00e9s un m\u00f3n tancat. Que una paella amb faves i carxofes, amb bacall\u00e0 i floricol o amb bajoques d\u2019estiu, caragols i conill\u201d \u00e9s tan paella com una amb garrof\u00f3. Hi ha ingredients que no admet la paella, \u201cprohibicions\u201d com ell eles anomena. Posa dos exemples: el xor\u00ed\u00e7 i el ‘chulet\u00f3n’. Per\u00f2 hi ha un ampli ventall de possibilitats que nom\u00e9s requereixen saber fer la combinaci\u00f3 correcta, ja que hi ha ingredients -explica Jordi Andr\u00e9s- que no es poden barrejar.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n

Aix\u00ed que, a mode de reivindicaci\u00f3, i per a deixar clar que amb un producte i diferents combinacions es poden elaborar cinc o sis paelles distintes -a cadasc\u00fa m\u00e9s saborosa-, El Tresmall va llan\u00e7ar una proposta amb 365 paelles diferents: una per a cada dia de l’any.<\/p>\n\n

El cuiner t\u00e9 clar que en aix\u00f2 de la cuina no cal tenir la ment tancada sin\u00f3 saber fer les coses b\u00e9. Perqu\u00e8 no tot val. \u201cLa cuina \u00e9s tradici\u00f3 i, com la llengua\u201d, afegeix, \u201cva canviant\u201d.\u00a0 \n<\/p>\n\n

Per aix\u00f2, en la carta del seu restaurant no poden faltar els plats de sempre, els cl\u00e0ssics, que comparteixen protagonisme amb uns altres m\u00e9s nous com la gamba marinada, la s\u00e9pia en tempura o, ara en temporada, la carxofa confitada.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n

Or\u00edgens i diversi\u00f3<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n

Precisament, un dels punts a favor del restaurant \u00e9s haver sabut mantenir viva la cuina tradicional sense deixar de jugar, com Andr\u00e9s diu, amb el producte de temporada. La cuina, afirma, \u201c\u00e9s mem\u00f2ria\u201d i qui acudeix al seu restaurant \u201csap al que ve\u201d. Per\u00f2 encara que \u201chi ha coses que no es toquen\u201d, indica, \u201cla cuina tamb\u00e9 ha de ser divertida i ha de poder sorprendre els comensals\u201d.\u00a0 \n<\/p>\n\n

Mantenir els or\u00edgens \u00e9s una m\u00e0xima que no admet discussi\u00f3 en El Tresmall. Per aix\u00f2, es treballa amb distribu\u00efdors de la zona i s’intenta omplir el rebost amb productes de quil\u00f2metre 0. Entre una \u00e0mplia carta de refer\u00e8ncies, amb denominacions d’origen distintes, s’aposta tamb\u00e9 per vins elaborats a la comarca. \u201cSom valencians i reivindiquem els productes d’aqu\u00ed\u201d, explica el gerent d’un restaurant que exhibeix el segell Bancalet.\u00a0 \n \n \n \n<\/p>\n\n

Situat a la platja de l\u2019Almadrava de D\u00e9nia, i envoltat de segones resid\u00e8ncies, durant les gaireb\u00e9 tres d\u00e8cades que el restaurant porta obert ha collit una clientela fidel entre la qual es compten madrilenys i valencians. Tamb\u00e9 ve\u00efns d’altres municipis de la Marina Alta i de poblacions pr\u00f2ximes, com Oliva. Molts s\u00f3n fills d’antics clients que acudeixen ara amb les seves fam\u00edlies o els seus amics.\u00a0<\/p>\n\n

Per la seua experi\u00e8ncia, Jordi Andr\u00e9s sap que a la gent li agraden les recomanacions en la taula i que la primera impressi\u00f3 que s’emporta el comensal en entrar a un restaurant \u00e9s important\u00edssima. \u201cLa recepci\u00f3, el tracte en sala, la simpatia\u2026 si l’experi\u00e8ncia comen\u00e7a malament, per molt bo que siga el menjar\u201d, subratlla, \u201c\u00e9s dif\u00edcil girar la sensaci\u00f3 que s’emporta\u201d. T\u00e9 clar que qui acudeix al seu restaurant s’ha d’emportar un bon record. \u201cAnar a menjar \u00e9s anar a gaudir\u201d, precisa, \u201ci tamb\u00e9 cal fer-ho a casa\u201d. Perqu\u00e8 cuinar, diu, \u201c\u00e9s una declaraci\u00f3 d’intencions i d’amor\u201d. \u201cLa cuina \u00e9s afecte\u201d. Tindrem l’oportunitat de comprovar-ho en el sopar de Casa meua \u00e9s casa teua que organitza Els Magazinos.<\/p>\n\n

El men\u00fa del 26 de febrer, a les 21 h., en el restaurant El Tresmall:<\/strong> Pa casol\u00e0, tom\u00e0quet, allioli i olives; salaons del Mediterrani; polp sec amb oli casol\u00e0 d'arbequina; coca d'espencat, ventresca de tonyina i morc\u00f3n; musclos a la planxa; llandeta de peix de palangre; past\u00eds d'ametlla i caf\u00e8; Maridatge: cervesa T\u00faria i vi. Preu: 50 \u20ac; Reserves: 966475040 \/ 626048149<\/pre>\n\n
<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"El programa Casa Meua \u00e9s casa teua arrenca l’any enfront de la mar El Tresmall, el nom del…","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":88978,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"csco_display_header_overlay":false,"csco_singular_sidebar":"","csco_page_header_type":"","csco_page_load_nextpost":"","csco_post_video_location":[],"csco_post_video_location_hash":"","csco_post_video_url":"","csco_post_video_bg_start_time":0,"csco_post_video_bg_end_time":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[589],"tags":[6538,6539,903,692,6541,6540],"class_list":{"0":"post-88983","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-gastronomia-ca-es","8":"tag-casa-meua-es-casa-teua","9":"tag-el-tresmall","10":"tag-els-magazinos-ca-es","11":"tag-gastronomia-ca-es","12":"tag-paella","13":"tag-restaurant","14":"cs-entry","15":"cs-video-wrap"},"yoast_head":"\nEl Tresmall, perqu\u00e8 la cuina \u00e9s una declaraci\u00f3 d'amor - Canfali<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"El Tresmall, el nom del restaurant on Casa meua \u00e9s casa teua aterra aquest mes de febrer, fa al\u00b7lusi\u00f3 a un art de pesca amb una tradici\u00f3 molt antiga -el tresmall- que han utilitzat durant segles les embarcacions xicotetes que pescaven enfront d'ell. 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