{"id":88371,"date":"2026-02-09T07:04:00","date_gmt":"2026-02-09T06:04:00","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/?p=88371"},"modified":"2026-02-06T18:48:59","modified_gmt":"2026-02-06T17:48:59","slug":"la-pizza-joc-de-contrastos-i-equilibris","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/ca-es\/la-pizza-joc-de-contrastos-i-equilibris\/","title":{"rendered":"La pizza: joc de contrastos i equilibris"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

<\/p>\n\n

Els pizzaioli<\/em> posen la creativitat al servei d\u2019un dels plats de cuina m\u00e9s universals, que hui dilluns celebra el seu dia mundial<\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n

La pizza, una elaboraci\u00f3 d’origen humil que va conquistar el paladar de la reialesa, s’ha convertit en un plat universal. La mengen grans i petits, a casa o en restaurants de m\u00e9s o de menys nivell. Creix el nombre de cadenes de restauraci\u00f3 que han fet d’ella el seu reclam, es ven en les parades del carrer i en supermercats i, a m\u00e9s, \u00e9s un dels plats preferits per als plans d’un dissabte per la nit de sof\u00e0 i pel\u00b7l\u00ed. Lluny de les velles discussions de reivindicaci\u00f3 de l’aut\u00e8ntica pizza, els mestres pizzers semblen tenir clars els seus or\u00edgens i se centren cada vegada m\u00e9s a innovar i oferir nous sabors. Alguns, atrevits. Uns altres, sorprenents. On est\u00e0 la clau del seu \u00e8xit? Giovanni Stanisci, que en dues ocasions ha col\u00b7locat les seues pizzes entre les millors de la Comunitat Valenciana, ho t\u00e9 clar: en la massa. <\/p>\n\n

La ciutat de N\u00e0pols \u00e9s coneguda com el bressol de la pizza. Conten que va ser un pag\u00e8s napolit\u00e0 qui, a la fi del segle XVII, va acompanyar amb tomaca aquells pans plans tradicionals que menjava. Encara que havia arribat a Europa un segle abans, s’havia est\u00e8s la creen\u00e7a que la tomaca era verinosa. A l’agosarat pag\u00e8s no li va passar res i, a poc a poc, es va estendre el costum entre els m\u00e9s humils d’acompanyar el pa amb tomaca i enfornar-lo. <\/p>\n\n

Giovanni Satanisci, de Pizzeria San Vito, en Els Magazinos de D\u00e9nia, subratlla l’origen humil de la pizza, un menjar de pobres que es va popularitzar a les cases dels mariners. D’aqu\u00ed el nom de la coneguda pizza \u2018marinara\u2019 (marinera), \u201cque en realitat no porta res d’origen mar\u00ed\u201d. Els seus ingredients b\u00e0sics s\u00f3n la tomaca, l’all i l’oli. <\/p>\n\n

Ara b\u00e9, la recepta de la pizza va guanyar adeptes quan l’any 1889 el pizzaiolo Raffaele Esposito va donar a degustar a Margarita de Savoia, l’esposa del rei Humberto I d’It\u00e0lia, tres pizzes de sabors distints. La reina va mostrar la seva prefer\u00e8ncia per la que portava tomaca, mozzarella i alf\u00e0brega, ingredients amb els tres colors de la bandera italiana, i va ser batejada amb el seu nom, pizza Margherita.<\/p>\n\n

No sabem quant hi ha de llegenda en tot aix\u00f2. Per\u00f2 la veritat \u00e9s que la pizza va traspassar la frontera de N\u00e0pols i es va convertir en un dels s\u00edmbols d’It\u00e0lia. <\/p>\n\n

Els seus antecedents cal buscar-los en les civilitzacions antigues. Grecs i romans ja menjaven un pa pla al qual afegien all, ceba i plantes arom\u00e0tiques. Algunes teories apunten al fet que el vocable pizza procedeix del llat\u00ed pinsa, participi del verb pinsere (aixafar), paraula que fa refer\u00e8ncia a la t\u00e8cnica utilitzada per a estirar la massa. Siga quin fos, la veritat \u00e9s que la paraula pizza \u00e9s ja universal i el seu consum est\u00e0 generalitzat en tots els racons del planeta.<\/p>\n\n

La UNESCO va declarar Patrimoni Immaterial de la Humanitat, l’any 2017, l’art del pizzaiolo napolit\u00e0 i, a m\u00e9s d’It\u00e0lia, entre els principals pa\u00efsos consumidors de pizzes figuren els Estats Units.<\/p>\n\n

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Ingredients que marquen estil<\/strong><\/h2>\n\n

El m\u00f3n de la pizza, com els gustos, ha evolucionat amb el temps. I la hist\u00f2ria de Giovanni Stanisci \u00e9s un exemple d’aix\u00f2. Nascut a D\u00e9nia, a l’Hospital de La Pedrera, es va criar veient als seus pares elaborar i enfornar pizzes en la Pizzeria San Vito. El seu pare, Giovanni, natural com el seu avi de Br\u00edndisi, prov\u00edncia situada a la regi\u00f3 de Puglia, treballava les pizzes a la manera cl\u00e0ssica. Durant 18 anys (entre 1993 i 2011), va regentar al costat de la seva esposa, Remedios Moncho, un dels locals m\u00e9s populars de pizzes per a portar de la ciutat, primer al carrer Lepanto i despr\u00e9s al carrer Benitatxell. \n \n<\/p>\n\n

El seu fill, que al maig de 2024 va obrir el seu propi negoci en Els Magazinos, ha recuperat el llegat que li va deixar el seu pare per\u00f2 ha donat un estil particular a les seves creacions, amb bases m\u00e9s elaborades i complexes i ingredients que no s\u00f3n obligat\u00f2riament els cl\u00e0ssics. En el seu local trobarem, al costat de les pizzes cl\u00e0ssiques, altres elaborades amb cecina de wagyu o pernil de c\u00e9rvol, per posar nom\u00e9s dos exemples. S\u00f3n el que ell denomina \u201cpizzes d’autor\u201d, que no han de ser millors ni pitjors que les cl\u00e0ssiques. Simplement, distintes. \u201cCada pizzer, cada professional, plasma el seu estil i cerca crear un equilibri amb els ingredients que tria per a cada pizza\u201d, explica. <\/p>\n\n

Sobre el gruix de la massa no hi ha res escrit, assegura. Pot tenir les vores m\u00e9s o menys grosses, a gust de l’autor. Per\u00f2 la pizza sempre ha d’estar \u201cben feta, amb afecte i amor\u201d. Ell prefereix les vores gruixudes i fuig d’elaboracions complicades, \u201cno \u00e9s el meu estil\u201d. S’inclina per fer \u00fas d’ingredients de qualitat i, sempre que siga possible, de proximitat. El 80% s\u00f3n italians, com la mortadel\u00b7la certificada que empra. I en temporada, utilitza les carxofes, el tom\u00e0quet rosa d’Altea, les figues o les bacores.<\/p>\n\n

\u201cLa massa \u00e9s clau\u201d, sost\u00e9 Giovanni. Aix\u00ed que si la pizza no t\u00e9 una bona base no es podr\u00e0 obtenir un bon producte. Defineix la que ell elabora com una massa napolitana contempor\u00e0nia, amb els mateixos ingredients que la cl\u00e0ssica per\u00f2 obtinguda amb l’\u00fas d’altres t\u00e8cniques, com una temperatura de cocci\u00f3 m\u00e9s alta i m\u00e9s hidratada.<\/p>\n\n

Com saber si una pizza \u00e9s bona? No cal complicar-se molt la vida. Per a passar la prova de foc, res millor que demanar una pizza margarida, \u201con es noten m\u00e9s els matisos, els sabors de la massa\u201d. Per aix\u00f2, \u00e9s la seva favorita entre les de sabors tradicionals. <\/p>\n\n

Si hagu\u00e9s de triar entre alguna de les seues creacions es quedaria amb la Piemont, amb una base de tartufo blanc, fior di latte, guanciale (la papada del porc, no confondre amb el bacon), alberg\u00ednia fregida i burrata de b\u00fafala. \u201cNom\u00e9s t\u00e9 un punt flac, que a la vista no \u00e9s molt bonica -assenyala-, per\u00f2 si la proves, \u00e9s una cosa molt diferent\u201d.<\/p>\n\n

\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n\n\n\n
\"\"<\/figure>\n<\/figure>\n\n

Amb l’obertura de San Vito -el nom del poble originari del seu avi i el seu pare-, Giovanni torna als or\u00edgens despr\u00e9s de treballar durant deu anys com a pizzer en altres dos locals, durant els cinc \u00faltims no lluny d’all\u00ed, en A la fresca. Es lleva tamb\u00e9, com ell diu, \u201cun petit pes de damunt\u201d. El seu pare sempre hauria volgut que ell tragu\u00e9s la pizzeria familiar avant. Tenia 18 anys quan va morir i no tenia la maduresa suficient per a fer-ho, per la qual cosa el negoci es va tancar. Ara les seves pizzes se situen entre les tres millors de la Comunitat Valenciana, aconseguint en 2025 un brillant segon lloc amb la seva pizza Mortadella & Pistacchio.<\/p>\n\n

Segur que el seu pare estaria orgull\u00f3s d’ell, un jove pizzer que t\u00e9 clar que en un negoci com el seu \u00e9s tan important la cuina com el servei de sala. \u201cEls clients s’han d’emportar una bona experi\u00e8ncia\u201d, apunta, \u201ci per aix\u00f2 han de ser excel\u00b7lents els qui fan el menjar i els qui el serveixen\u201d. Ell t\u00e9 la seua confian\u00e7a posada en la cap de sala, la seva dona, Leidy, \u201cque \u00e9s el 50% de tot aix\u00f2\u201d, afegeix.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Els pizzaioli posen la creativitat al servei d\u2019un dels plats de cuina m\u00e9s universals, que hui dilluns celebra…","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":88361,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"csco_display_header_overlay":false,"csco_singular_sidebar":"","csco_page_header_type":"","csco_page_load_nextpost":"","csco_post_video_location":[],"csco_post_video_location_hash":"","csco_post_video_url":"","csco_post_video_bg_start_time":0,"csco_post_video_bg_end_time":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[589],"tags":[6411,903,6409,6408,6410],"class_list":{"0":"post-88371","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-gastronomia-ca-es","8":"tag-dia-mundial-de-la-pizza","9":"tag-els-magazinos-ca-es","10":"tag-giovanni-stanici","11":"tag-pizzaiolo","12":"tag-pizzeria-san-vito","13":"cs-entry","14":"cs-video-wrap"},"yoast_head":"\nLa pizza: joc de contrastos i equilibris - 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