{"id":68841,"date":"2025-07-03T11:51:49","date_gmt":"2025-07-03T09:51:49","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/un-homenatge-se-sol-i-sal-per-a-salvador-gilabert\/"},"modified":"2025-07-04T13:32:38","modified_gmt":"2025-07-04T11:32:38","slug":"un-homenatge-se-sol-i-sal-per-a-salvador-gilabert","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/ca-es\/un-homenatge-se-sol-i-sal-per-a-salvador-gilabert\/","title":{"rendered":"Un homenatge ‘se sol i sal’ per a Salvador Gilabert"},"content":{"rendered":"\n

La t\u00e8cnica de la sala\u00f3 i el peix sec ha sobreviscut als segles i es mant\u00e9 viva en la cuina<\/p><\/blockquote><\/figure>\n\n

\u201cDe casta le viene al galgo!\u201d, diu el refranyer espanyol. Sergio Gilabert Rovira va donar bona fe d’aix\u00f2 el dissabte en Els Magazinos, durant la fira \u2018Sol i Sal\u2019, on va compartir algunes de les coses que va aprendre del seu pare: t\u00e8cniques, receptes per\u00f2 sobretot -i aix\u00f2 es notava en escoltar-ho- la passi\u00f3 per la cuina i la mar. Va ser un bonic homenatge a un cuiner que es va fer a si mateix preguntant, recuperant i investigant sobre les receptes de sempre, a les quals agradava de donar un punt diferent afegint-los un toc personal. Salvador Gilabert va ser un enamorat de les salaons, la tonyina i el peix sec, que va preparar i va servir per als amics, en el c\u00e0mping de la fam\u00edlia, en el recordat restaurant Les Caves de Neptuno i en Menjars T\u00edpics, l’establiment de menjars per a portar i men\u00fas per a esdeveniments que va regentar al costat dels seus en l’\u00faltima etapa de la seva vida. El del dissabte va ser un homenatge de sol i sal, per\u00f2 tamb\u00e9 d’amics i molt merescut.<\/p>\n\n

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Sergio Gilabert, cuiner tamb\u00e9 de professi\u00f3, va voler obsequiar als assistents amb tomacat amb \u2018sangatxo\u2019 i \u2018pelleta\u2019, un plat de temporada \u201cque agrada molt a la fam\u00edlia\u201d, va explicar, d’elaboraci\u00f3 senzilla i que, al costat de la tonyina, t\u00e9 com a base dos productes de l’horta i de l’estiu, la tomaca i el pebrot.<\/p>\n\n

Salvador, comentava el seu fill, va ser \u201cun enamorat de tot el mariner, sobretot del peix, tamb\u00e9 el de riu\u201d i sabia que per a elaborar un bon guisat no era necessari complicar-se la vida. Els va fer amb esp\u00e8cies de peix menys conegudes i poc utilitzades en la cuina, com el fur\u00f3 i la juriola, per\u00f2 tamb\u00e9 amb altres productes del receptari de la Marina com l’anguila o l’\u00e0nec de marjal.<\/p>\n\n

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La fira \u2018Sol i Sal\u2019 d\u2019Els Magazinos era l’escenari perfecte perqu\u00e8 Sergio fes un homenatge al seu pare, capa\u00e7 de posar en sal i pebre qualsevol peix. Va explicar com fer-ho a casa i va fer una demostraci\u00f3 amb l’aladroc. Encara que est\u00e0 millor a la brasa, va confessar, per exig\u00e8ncies del lloc i el moment va preparar \u2018budellet\u2019 a la flama, un plat que alguns dels assistents desconeixien i el record del qual va retrotreure a molts altres dels assistents a la inf\u00e0ncia, quan encara era habitual menjar-lo en fam\u00edlia.<\/p>\n\n

Emocionat en diverses ocasions, sobretot quan contava an\u00e8cdotes del seu pare, Sergio Gilabert va aconsellar als joves cuiners que coneguen la rica gastronomia deniera i gaudisquen amb ella.<\/p>\n\n

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Amb Salvador Gilabert va compartir molts bons moments i va gaudir de la cuina en repetides ocasions Federico Cervera. Fam\u00edlies ve\u00efnes, va parlar de la vaqueria que tenien els seus pares, de com Salvador repartia la llet amb bicicleta i dels grans canvis que ha experimentat el barri mariner. Va comptar tamb\u00e9 que va ser amb la fam\u00edlia Gilabert amb la qual va tenir el seu primer contacte gastron\u00f2mic amb els eri\u00e7ons, que no podia ni oldre i que ara, assegura, devora.<\/p>\n\n

Sortir tarifant<\/strong>La mar i les salaons van actuar de nexe d’uni\u00f3 entre aquells nens que jugaven prop de la platja, llavors aliens a la vor\u00e0gine de turistes i urbanitzacions que vindria despr\u00e9s i envoltats de camps de cot\u00f3 i blat de moro. I de salaons i peix sec van parlar tamb\u00e9 els altres convidats a la taula rodona que va organitzar Els Magazinos.<\/p>\n\n

<\/p>\n\n

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Entre el p\u00fablic, alguns van descobrir que expressions i paraules que ens resulten tan familiars com ‘tunante’, bergant, sortir tarifant o \u2018de la Ceca a la Meca\u2019 estan relacionades amb la tonyina. El responsable d’aix\u00f2 va ser l’historiador Javier Calvo, qui va parlar de l’almadrava i la captura de les tonyines, de les talaies i de les \u00e0mfores i la seva fabricaci\u00f3. Autor d’una publicaci\u00f3 sobre salaons amb motiu de la fira d\u2019Els Magazinos, va citar algunes receptes de llarga tradici\u00f3 que recull en ella. Va explicar el valor que els romans van donar al g\u00e0rum, una salsa a base de peix fermentat que costava tant com els m\u00e9s cars perfums, curiositats com l’elaboraci\u00f3 d’un guisat de tonyina amb panses que inclo\u00efa els ulls del peix.<\/p>\n\n

Amb la Guerra de Successi\u00f3, en el segle XVIII, l’almadrava de D\u00e9nia, aquella de la qual presumia davant Felip III el Duc de Lerma, va entrar en decad\u00e8ncia. No sols perqu\u00e8 la tonyina fuig dels llocs de molt de tr\u00e0nsit, com n’hi va haver en aquell moment, sin\u00f3 tamb\u00e9 per altres factors, com l’enfonsament brusc de les temperatures que va haver-hi entre el segle XVII i 1850, que va afectar els corrents i a l’alimentaci\u00f3 de la tonyina; la pr\u00f2spera ind\u00fastria de la pansa que comen\u00e7ava a despuntar; i la compet\u00e8ncia d’altres almadraves. Per\u00f2 la causa principal no va ser altra que l’arribada del bacall\u00e0 sec, infinitament m\u00e9s barat i que va acabar per enfonsar el mercat de la tonyina.<\/p>\n\n

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Marc Ros, de la barca d’arrossegament Cap Prim Segon de X\u00e0bia, va relatar la seva experi\u00e8ncia a bord d’una embarcaci\u00f3 que ha participat per segona vegada en la campanya de pesca de la tonyina a l’ordre d’una de les dues grans empreses autoritzades per la Uni\u00f3 Europea per a realitzar les captures. Aquesta mateixa setmana, despr\u00e9s de passar 35 dies amb les seves 35 nits en la mar, havia tornat a port. De fam\u00edlia de pescadors, el jove Marc va parlar d’alguns dels peixos que s’assequen en la barca, com el \u2018gatet\u2019 o la \u2018moixa\u2019. De com assecar el polp i el bon\u00edtol va donar algunes nocions Michel Letelier, pescador de tresmall (Zeus, Confraria de D\u00e9nia), qui va remarcar que durant el proc\u00e9s d’assecat el polp perd un 50% del seu pes.<\/p>\n\n

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Altres dos pescadors d’arrossegament (Franjumar, Confraria de D\u00e9nia), Samu Garc\u00eda Labios i el seu pare Juan Antonio Garc\u00eda \u2018l’andal\u00fas\u2019, van comptar la seva experi\u00e8ncia a bord de la barca i com tamb\u00e9 ells assequen esp\u00e8cies com el bacall\u00e0 o la moixa. A Samu li ho ha ensenyat tot el seu pare, el seu \u201c\u00eddol\u201d, va afirmar. I no \u00e9s per a menys. Juan \u2018l’andal\u00fas\u2019 t\u00e9 en el seu haver quatre naufragis, el primer amb nom\u00e9s 14 anys. Ara, ja jubilat, el seu fill li amo\u00efna quan surt a la mar. Perqu\u00e8 la de pescador \u00e9s una professi\u00f3 \u201cdif\u00edcil i de molta responsabilitat\u201d, per\u00f2 que dona tamb\u00e9 moltes alegries.<\/p>\n\n

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