{"id":60423,"date":"2025-03-27T17:16:30","date_gmt":"2025-03-27T16:16:30","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/embotit-tradicional-de-tornada-a-les-arrels\/"},"modified":"2025-03-27T17:25:05","modified_gmt":"2025-03-27T16:25:05","slug":"embotit-tradicional-de-tornada-a-les-arrels","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/ca-es\/embotit-tradicional-de-tornada-a-les-arrels\/","title":{"rendered":"Embotit tradicional, de tornada a les arrels"},"content":{"rendered":"\n
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Els xarcuters innoven i recuperen receptes per a mantenir viu un llegat de segles<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n

La hist\u00f2ria s’escriu a poc a poc, pas a pas. En aquest cas, el de l’embotit, recepta a recepta. Perqu\u00e8, en l’elaboraci\u00f3 i consum d’embotits, el nostre territori t\u00e9 una llarga tradici\u00f3 que es veu reflectida en la seva cultura i en la seva gastronomia. La botifarra, la llonganissa i la sobrassada estan tan lligats a la nostra cuina que sense elles no s’entendrien plats com l\u2019arr\u00f2s al forn<\/em>, el berenaret <\/em>de Pasqua o les faves sacsades<\/em>. Pocs s\u00f3n ja, no obstant aix\u00f2, els xarcuters que elaboren els embotits de manera artesanal. Per\u00f2 haver-los, haylos<\/em>. Tres d’ells van estar el diumenge passat en Els Magazinos per a participar en la fira Porc, pebre i pebre roig, una iniciativa que pret\u00e9n mantenir viva la tradici\u00f3, reivindicar el producte de qualitat i la mem\u00f2ria d’un ofici que precisa de reconeixement i, tamb\u00e9, de garanties de continu\u00eftat. <\/p>\n\n

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Toni Arab\u00ed (Ca Curro, Gata de Gorgos), Francis Sancho (Ca Paquitina, Ondara) i Pedro Costa (Carnisseria Panxeta, Pedreguer) s\u00f3n els convidats a la tert\u00falia organitzada entorn de la fira. Un a un desgranen els secrets del seu treball, her\u00e8ncia familiar amb solatge d’experi\u00e8ncia i saber fer a la seva esquena. B\u00e9, nom\u00e9s alguns dels seus secrets. Perqu\u00e8 en aix\u00f2 de l’embotit, com en moltes altres coses, tot no es pot contar. <\/p>\n\n

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El baix percentatge en greixos i l’\u00fas de les parts nobles de l’animal, com l’espatlla, el pernil o el llom, tenen bona part de culpa que l’embotit que ells elaboren siga diferent i m\u00e9s saludable que l’industrial, explica Francisco Sancho. Tamb\u00e9 les esp\u00e8cies que s’utilitzen, destaquen Pedro Panxeta <\/em>i Toni Arab\u00ed. Aquest \u00faltim subratlla la import\u00e0ncia de no quedar-se estancats, atrevir-se amb noves elaboracions i apostes m\u00e9s o menys arriscades. \u00c9s el cas de la salsitxa fresca amb tomaca seca i fr\u00edgola que elabora, un producte basat en la tradici\u00f3 per\u00f2 amb un sabor diferent. O del garr\u00f3, un embotit similar al camaiot de les Balears al qual confereix un toc personal i que dona a provar als assistents. <\/p>\n\n

Panxeta<\/em> insisteix en les difer\u00e8ncies en l’\u00fas de les esp\u00e8cies i en l’elaboraci\u00f3 del producte que hi ha en cada municipi. Per exemple, a Ontinyent li afegeixen an\u00eds a la botifarra i en alguns municipis de la Safor utilitzen el fonoll. Usos i costums que modelen els paladars. Per aix\u00f2 l’embotit que t\u00e9 \u00e8xit en una zona no el t\u00e9 en una altra. <\/p>\n\n

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De sobrassada i d’her\u00e8ncia morisca es va parlar en la xerrada, que van conduir Empar Ferrer i Luis Ca\u00f1izares. Per\u00f2 tamb\u00e9 de la hist\u00f2ria de l’embotit i de curiositats lligades a la seva evoluci\u00f3. D’aix\u00f2 es va encarregar el doctor en Hist\u00f2ria Javier Calvo, cara coneguda dels qui assisteixen a les taules rodones d\u2019Els Magazinos i autor del col\u00b7leccionable \u201cEl nostre territori\u201d, el primer n\u00famero del qual es va presentar el diumenge. <\/p>\n\n

L’aparici\u00f3 de l’embotit, com va dir Calvo, varia en el temps segons el lloc. No necess\u00e0riament s’ha d’elaborar amb carn de porc. Per exemple, est\u00e0 documentat el consum de la botifarra de garum i el xori\u00e7o de cervellets. En \u00e8poca medieval tamb\u00e9 es van consumir embotits dol\u00e7os, ja que el sucre era considerat una esp\u00e8cia. <\/p>\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n

L’historiador va parlar de la import\u00e0ncia de les esp\u00e8cies i el seu paper per a la conservaci\u00f3 dels aliments. Va contar algunes an\u00e8cdotes i curiositats sobre el clau, la introducci\u00f3 del qual en l’elaboraci\u00f3 dels embotits a les comarques de l’interior va relacionar amb els pieds-noirs, o el pebre, que va arribar de l’\u00cdndia. Hist\u00f2ria i llegenda van de bracet, tamb\u00e9 en aix\u00f2 de les esp\u00e8cies. I com a mostra, la creen\u00e7a que C\u00e9sar Borja, fill del pont\u00edfex Alexandre VI, va rajar pebre d’una ferida en comptes de sang. <\/p>\n\n

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Darrere de l’embotit hi ha molt a comptar i per descobrir. Alguns dels assistents a la taula rodona, per exemple, desconeixien el costum d’acompanyar la mona de Pasqua amb sobrassada. Van tenir l’oportunitat de provar-la -una del\u00edcia!- i tamb\u00e9 de con\u00e8ixer que la porta de la innovaci\u00f3 continua oberta. O si no, que li pregunten a Pedro Panxet<\/em>a, que elabora una sobrassada embolicada en pebre.<\/p>\n\n

\"\"<\/figure>\n\n

La Associaci\u00f3 de Xarcuters de la Marina reballa per mantenir un ofici i protegir un llegat mancat de relleu generacional. Hi ha excepcions, com Iris, de 12 anys la filla de Panxeta.<\/em> All\u00ed la vam veure, fent gala de la seva declarada passi\u00f3 per l’ofici. <\/p>\n\n

La temporada de fires d\u2019Els Magazinos, que ara arrenca, presenta com a novetat una jornada dedicada a les coques batejada com Farina, fina que fina.<\/em> Hi haur\u00e0 altres cites abans. La pr\u00f2xima, el mes d’abril amb els olis de Di\u00e0nia. <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Els xarcuters innoven i recuperen receptes per a mantenir viu un llegat de segles La hist\u00f2ria s’escriu a…","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":60409,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"csco_display_header_overlay":false,"csco_singular_sidebar":"","csco_page_header_type":"","csco_page_load_nextpost":"","csco_post_video_location":[],"csco_post_video_location_hash":"","csco_post_video_url":"","csco_post_video_bg_start_time":0,"csco_post_video_bg_end_time":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[589],"tags":[901,903,900,902,904,905],"class_list":{"0":"post-60423","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-gastronomia-ca-es","8":"tag-botifarra","9":"tag-els-magazinos-ca-es","10":"tag-embotit","11":"tag-fira","12":"tag-garro-ca-es","13":"tag-sobrassada","14":"cs-entry","15":"cs-video-wrap"},"yoast_head":"\nEmbotit tradicional, de tornada a les arrels - 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