{"id":46359,"date":"2020-07-29T13:25:59","date_gmt":"2020-07-29T11:25:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/dotze-ceps-en-una-comarca-de-vines\/"},"modified":"2020-07-29T13:25:59","modified_gmt":"2020-07-29T11:25:59","slug":"dotze-ceps-en-una-comarca-de-vines","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/ca-es\/dotze-ceps-en-una-comarca-de-vines\/","title":{"rendered":"Dotze Ceps en una comarca de vinyes"},"content":{"rendered":"<p><strong>Un grup de joves de Jes&uacute;s Pobre posen en marxa un projecte per dotar la Marina Alta d&rsquo;identitat vin&iacute;cola<\/strong><\/p>\n<p><strong>Els vins naturals i sense additius poden ser l&rsquo;oportunitat per personalitzar l&rsquo;oferta<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>ROSA RIBES<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>Tenim la terra, tenim el clima, tenim les varietats, tenim un passat vin&iacute;cola, tenim cellers que s&rsquo;han llen&ccedil;at a produir vi, tenim joves amb ganes de fer de la nostra una comarca que siga referent en el m&oacute;n de la vinicultura. Qu&egrave; ens falta? All&ograve; que done als nostres vins una identitat pr&ograve;pia. Amb eixa idea, la cooperativa Dotze Ceps de Jes&uacute;s Pobre ha posat en marxa un ambici&oacute;s projecte que pret&eacute;n ser punt de partida per estructurar l&rsquo;elaboraci&oacute; de vi a la Marina Alta. Dotar els nostres vins de personalitat, d&rsquo;alguna cosa que els identifique i que ens fa&ccedil;a m&eacute;s aut&egrave;ntics, no &eacute;s una tasca f&agrave;cil. Potser el cam&iacute; siguen els vins naturals, sense additius. Eixa &eacute;s la seua proposta. Valenta i arriscada, i que convida a la reflexi&oacute;.<\/p>\n<p>En els darrers anys han sorgit moltes iniciatives per dignificar la producci&oacute; de vi a la comarca, durant molt de temps relegada a les elaboracions casolanes d&rsquo;autoconsum, a unes cooperatives que s&rsquo;han esfor&ccedil;at per obrir-se cam&iacute; amb noves elaboracions -aix&ograve; s&iacute;, cada vegada m&eacute;s curades- i a xicotets cellers que han despuntat en moments determinats i han campat cadascun pel seu compte. Iniciatives com els concursos de vins que han anat proliferant pels pobles en les &uacute;ltimes d&egrave;cades, la Mostra de Vins Singulars que se celebra des de fa tres anys o els joves cellers que han aconseguit posicionar els seus caldos s&oacute;n signe que alguna cosa est&agrave; coent-se. La gent beu i fa vi; i a m&eacute;s a m&eacute;s, en parla.<\/p>\n<p>No sabem si despr&eacute;s de molt de parlar, molt de xafar o molt de tastar, sis parelles d&rsquo;una quadrilla d&rsquo;amics de Jes&uacute;s Pobre decideixen que cal fer alguna cosa. Corria l&rsquo;any 2015. I comen&ccedil;a l&rsquo;embolic. Es comboien per recuperar les terres familiars que no estan treballades, es constitueixen en cooperativa i la bategen com a Dotze Ceps, nom que fa honor als dotze integrants inicials (una composici&oacute; parit&agrave;ria, igual nombre d&rsquo;homes que de dones) de la mampresa. Plantaren el primer trosset de vinya l&rsquo;any 2017 i enguany faran el primer vi, encara que saben que per obtenir un bon vi &ldquo;han de passar uns deu anys&rdquo;, diu Andreu Costa, un dels impulsors de la cooperativa. Mentre passen els anys, cal anar provant per&ograve; amb la vinya jove.<\/p>\n<p>El seu ser&agrave; un vi ecol&ograve;gic. Les varietats que conreen s&oacute;n gir&oacute; -la nostra garnatxa negra-, carinyena, marselan, moscatell i garnatxa blanca. Tenen un camp experimental de varietats oblidades i han obtingut autoritzaci&oacute; per treballar quatre hect&agrave;rees de vinya. Perqu&egrave; en aix&ograve; de la viticultura, com en tantes altres coses de la vida, tot est&agrave; regulat. O quasi tot.<\/p>\n<p>Amb el referent iber dels vins de l&rsquo;Alt de Benimaquia i l&rsquo;experi&egrave;ncia del Priorat, la seua proposta de futur s&oacute;n els vins naturals. I la llencen a la resta de la comarca per treballar de forma coordinada. Perqu&egrave;, com diu Andreu, si volem ser &ldquo;hem d&rsquo;ajuntar forces&rdquo;.<\/p>\n<p>Els impulsors de Dotze Ceps &ldquo;compartim la nostra il&middot;lusi&oacute; i passi&oacute; pel vi&rdquo;, explica Maria Rosa Costa. Creuen que els vins naturals poden ser una bona eina per fer que la Marina Alta sone com a referent en el m&oacute;n del vi perqu&egrave; &ldquo;els consumidors demanen, cada vegada m&eacute;s, saber que &eacute;s el que estan menjant i bevent, i no hi ha cap zona vitivin&iacute;cola caracteritzada per este concepte&rdquo;, afegia dissabte. Ho feia durant la presentaci&oacute; d&rsquo;unes jornades celebrades a Jes&uacute;s Pobre que van comptar amb la pres&egrave;ncia de Josep Llu&iacute;s P&eacute;rez Verd&uacute;, considerat el pare de la vinicultura moderna. Organitzades per esta cooperativa, les jornades van servir per con&egrave;ixer l&rsquo;experi&egrave;ncia de Mas Martinet, del qual &eacute;s fundador, i les seues investigacions per elaborar vins negres sense cap additiu.<\/p>\n<p>La voluntat de la cooperativa es activar &ldquo;el territori vin&iacute;cola de la comarca&rdquo;, en paraules de Rosa Maria, i impulsar una economia social i solid&agrave;ria, transformadora. La finalitat no &eacute;s l&rsquo;augment del n&uacute;mero de socis, sin&oacute; la col&middot;laboraci&oacute;, el treball de les terres en conjunt i la cerca de noves formes de relaci&oacute;. La competitivitat &eacute;s un element que queda al marge d&rsquo;aquest plantejament. &ldquo;La venda d&rsquo;una botella de qualsevol dels vins que es facen ac&iacute;, a la comarca, ha de ser motiu d&rsquo;alegria per a tots perqu&egrave; &eacute;s part de la nostra hist&ograve;ria i una mostra del que podem fer&rdquo;, deia Andreu dissabte.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Productors i amants del vi dels pobles de la Marina Alta i tamb&eacute; de m&eacute;s enll&agrave; del nostre territori van participar en unes jornades que Josep Llu&iacute;s P&eacute;rez Verd&uacute; va introduir apel&middot;lant a &ldquo;produir el que el terreny dona&rdquo; i &ldquo;buscar la personalitat del vi&rdquo;. El sol, la terra i el clima influeixen en el gust del vi mentre que el sulfur&oacute;s altera el seu gust, la seua personalitat i el seu codi gen&egrave;tic. &ldquo;Per qu&egrave; utilitzar-lo si jo he treballat per aconseguir que fora d&rsquo;una determinada manera?&rdquo;, va plantejar.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Amb aquesta i altres reflexions &ndash;&ldquo;premiar la grand&agrave;ria indueix a no buscar la qualitat sin&oacute; la quantitat&rdquo;, una manera de fer l&rsquo;ullet al vi de minifundi-, el reconegut vinicultor va aconseguir que molts dels assistents eixiren de les jornades amb una nova mirada que els far&agrave; replantejar-se el futur. Un futur que beu del passat, un passat adormit, i d&rsquo;un present amb gent que t&eacute; moltes ganes de fer coses. Eixa &eacute;s la sensaci&oacute; que vaig tenir de tornada cap a D&eacute;nia en contemplar els deu bancalets del camp experimental de Dotze Ceps, situats en un tossalet amb marges alts de pedra en sec que semblen aturats en el temps. O potser no, potser han tornat a la vida per oferir-nos la imatge d&rsquo;un passat que vol fer-nos repensar el futur.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"Un grup de joves de Jes&uacute;s Pobre posen en marxa un projecte per dotar la Marina Alta d&rsquo;identitat&hellip;","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":15330,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"csco_display_header_overlay":false,"csco_singular_sidebar":"","csco_page_header_type":"","csco_page_load_nextpost":"","csco_post_video_location":[],"csco_post_video_location_hash":"","csco_post_video_url":"","csco_post_video_bg_start_time":0,"csco_post_video_bg_end_time":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[610],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-46359","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-lultima","8":"cs-entry","9":"cs-video-wrap"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v26.6 (Yoast SEO v27.3) - 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