{"id":43295,"date":"2021-04-30T15:26:24","date_gmt":"2021-04-30T13:26:24","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/el-polp-en-la-memria\/"},"modified":"2025-02-25T09:48:56","modified_gmt":"2025-02-25T08:48:56","slug":"el-polp-en-la-memria","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/ca-es\/el-polp-en-la-memria\/","title":{"rendered":"El polp en la mem\u00f2ria"},"content":{"rendered":"

R.R.F.<\/strong><\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Dénia fa gust a gamba, arrossos, peixos, figatells, coques, saladura i eriçons. Possiblement això és el que pensen molts dels assidus als seus restaurants i aquells que s’alimenten de lectures gastronòmiques. Sí, tot això és cert. Llevat d’alguns períodes en què ens hem deixat portar per les modes, el nostre receptari i les cartes dels millors locals han begut i beuen d’allò que tenim més a mà. L’oferta és rica i és variada. Un equilibri precís entre tradició i innovació fa que el ventall de possibilitats siga ample i que aquell que ens visita atret per la fama que atresorem s’enduga en la memòria el gust d’algun dels nostres plats més emblemàtics. Però hui, encara que recalem en El Pegolí, no anem a parlar d’arròs a banda, ni de gambes. Hui parlarem d’una experiència gastronòmica que té el polp com a protagonista. I no, no ens referim al polp sec.<\/p>\n

            Hem de rebobinar 60 o 62 anys enrere, a finals de la dècada dels 50, i hem de recordar que per aquell temps circulava un ferrocarril de via estreta que feia la línia Carcaixent-Dénia. Molts desconeixeran la figura de l’ambulant, el nom que rebia el carter encarregat de dur el correu en el tren. Hi havia un vagó específic per al correu que feia la funció d’estafeta. Durant el trajecte, l’ambulant matasegellava la correspondència fins arribar a l’estació de destinació. Sembla que el nostre trenet<\/em>, com encara el recordem ací 47 anys després que es tancara la línia, va ser el primer a utilitzar bústies de carrer a bord que permetien que durant el recorregut es pugueren dipositar cartes des dels pobles per on passava el tren. Dona compte també de la importància del servei, que enllaçava el correu amb la línia a València. Però no perdem el fil.<\/p>\n

En aquells anys 50, hi havia dos serveis ambulants: un que feia el recorregut pel matí i l’altre per la vesprada. De vegades, si li tocava torn de vesprada, el carter havia de fer nit al poble i tornar en el tren de l’endemà; a Dénia, dormia en una casa particular que llogava un parell d’habitacions. Juan Toledo Girau era un dels carters ambulants de la línia Carcaixent-Dénia i el seu fill Ángel l’acompanyava algunes vegades en el tren, on ajudava a son pare a encunyar la correspondència. Recorda aquell encuny amb tinta blava, de forma octogonal i on figurava la inscripció Carcagente-Dénia,<\/strong> i com li agradava traure el cap per la finestreta del vagó del correu. Guarda també un record lligat al paladar: el del polp que es va menjar amb son pare en un dels viatges a El Pegolí.<\/p>\n

            Aquell dia, feren el viatge de matí i no tornarien fins la nit. Havia de dinar a Dénia i son pare el va dur a un baret de Les Rotes, davant de la mar. Ángel Toledo Burguera, de Benifairó de Valldigna, el descriu com “un barraconet amb canyís a la porta” que, segons em conta, estava atés per un home, una dona i el que deuria ser el seu fill. Ell volia menjar polp i el xicon, un jove Pepe Piera “el Pegolí”, es va tirar a l’aigua “i va eixir amb dos polps a la mà”. El desig estava quasi complit: “li va pegar quatre bacs al terra i vam dinar polp”, relata.<\/p>\n

            Possiblement fora polp guisat, com se solia fer en la majoria de les cases en aquell temps. Acompanyada per Josep A. Gisbert, qui casualment va entropessar amb Ángel Toledo a València en una tenda de col·leccionisme, m’aprope al paisatge vital de joventut del fill de l’ambulant del trenet. Ens rep Mari Luz Piera, amb qui Gisbert ha contactat prèviament. La filla de Pepe “el Pegolí” recorda que abans “anaven tots els dies a pescar, a fer eriçons i a polpejar davant de casa” i es cuinava en funció del que s’agarrava. Comenta que en aquells anys “estava tot ple de polps” i que en canvi ara “no en veus ni un”. El polp es menjava guisat o sec, i ens mostra un grapat de fotografies penjades a l’interior del local amb els polps estesos assecant-se al sol.<\/p>\n

            Li contem la història del fill de l’ambulant i repassem com han anat canviant les coses des que Asunción Puchol Llopis i José Piera Sendra obriren aquella barraqueta a la Marineta Cassiana l’any 1943 que després traslladarien a l’emplaçament actual, on ha viscut els seus millor smoments ‘el baret de Les Rotes’. Se servien més que res esmorzars “i la iaia feia paelles de llenya”. Parla de les neveres de gel, de com massaven el polp per trencar-li les fibres i que no parara dur, com va arribar el boom turístic i van començar a fer-se dinars i sopars, la introducció de la gamba roja amb son pare ja al front del negoci i la creació del menú de marisc i arròs a banda que tantes vegades hauran preparat ell i Lina Sendra, la seua dona.<\/p>\n

Mari Luz i la seua germana Mari Ángeles estan ara al front del negoci junt amb les seues marits, Daniel Doif i Carlos Mañas. Han hagut altres canvis. La carta es va ampliar fa uns anys “i va adaptant-se al temps actual”. “Mantenim l’essència del que ens han ensenyat avis i pares però tenint en compte el moment en el qual estem”, explica.<\/p>\n

En la carta no figura el polp guisat que probablement deguera menjar Ángel però sí un suggeridor polp fregit amb allioli de pimentó. Hui Mari Luz fa una excepció i ens prepara el polp guisat. L’acompanya amb salmorra i olives xafades, “com es faria abans i amb la salmorra casera, feta per ma mare”. Diu que una de les coses més boniques és rebre en el restaurant a iaios amb fills i nets que li diuen que l’arròs té el mateix gust que la primera vegada que van anar al restaurant. “El sabor els transporta a quan eren menuts”, diu. I això, la fa feliç. De debò que el polp també ho ha aconseguit.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"R.R.F.   Dénia fa gust a gamba, arrossos, peixos, figatells, coques, saladura i eriçons. 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