{"id":41902,"date":"2021-09-10T17:01:55","date_gmt":"2021-09-10T15:01:55","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/olor-a-pansa-i-moscatell\/"},"modified":"2025-02-25T12:09:37","modified_gmt":"2025-02-25T11:09:37","slug":"olor-a-pansa-i-moscatell","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/canfali.com\/ca-es\/olor-a-pansa-i-moscatell\/","title":{"rendered":"Olor a pansa i moscatell"},"content":{"rendered":"<p>&nbsp;<\/p>\n<p><strong>&ldquo;L&rsquo;any 1906 l&rsquo;esplanada del castell i els bancals sobre la vila vella estaven plantats en un 90% de vinya&rdquo;<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>A la Marina Alta setembre fa olor a ra&iuml;m, a vi i a pansa. Lluny en la mem&ograve;ria han quedat aquells anys daurats de grans produccions de ra&iuml;m, quan les calderes bullien i els canyissos omplien els sequers. Eren dies de tr&agrave;fec a les finques i a les casetes, per&ograve; tamb&eacute; a la ciutat, on els magatzems i el port de D&eacute;nia vivien una activitat fren&egrave;tica. De tot all&ograve; queden algunes empremtes que han sobreviscut a anys de ciment i abandonament de l&rsquo;agricultura, del paisatge i de bona part de l&rsquo;activitat industrial. Ara, D&eacute;nia presumeix d&rsquo;una gastronomia que fa bandera del producte de temporada i de proximitat i d&rsquo;un entorn que l&rsquo;ha modelada com a poble i ha fet d&rsquo;ella una ciutat acollidora i din&agrave;mica. En la D&eacute;nia actual, els pocs vestigis que queden d&rsquo;eixe passat esplendor&oacute;s ens permeten encara fer un recorregut per la ciutat que va viure durant d&egrave;cades bolcada a la mar i a les vinyes. La crisis de la fil&middot;loxera de principis del segle XX acabaria amb un temps de pansa que ara, al setembre, torna en forma de xerrades i visites guiades per indrets on encara es pot percebre el seu flaire. De moment.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; El programa <em>Temps de Pansa<\/em> constata que el passat m&eacute;s immediat continua despertant inter&egrave;s. Vint-i-quatre hores despr&eacute;s que es feren p&uacute;bliques les activitats organitzades enguany pel Museu Etnol&ograve;gic dins este cicle de visites guiades, s&rsquo;havien cobert totes les reserves. La pand&egrave;mia obliga a restringir els grups a 35 persones i per a la primera activitat, diumenge passat, hi havia llista d&rsquo;espera. La soluci&oacute; va ser fer dos grups que amb Josep Marqu&eacute;s s&rsquo;endinsaren en el meravell&oacute;s m&oacute;n de la producci&oacute; de ra&iuml;m i l&rsquo;elaboraci&oacute; de la pansa. Ho feren des del castell de D&eacute;nia, on la vinya torna a poblar alguns bancalets com ho feu tamb&eacute; a principis del segle passat.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; El castell va perdre el seu inter&egrave;s militar a mitjans del segle XIX, com recorda l&rsquo;arque&ograve;leg Josep A. Gisbert, i pass&agrave; a mans privades. Va ser adquirit per una s&egrave;rie de prohoms de la ciutat que formarien una societat i el convertiren en una finca privada on es conrearia el ra&iuml;m destinat a la producci&oacute; de la pansa, com en la major part del terme i la comarca. L&rsquo;any 1906, l&rsquo;esplanada del castell i els bancals sobre la vila vella estaven plantats en un 90% de vinya moscatell. Sembla que la fil&middot;loxera i el mildeu no suposaren la seua desaparici&oacute; en el castell, observa Gisbert. En una fotografia de Friedrich Christiansen, que apareix en el llibre <em>Die Spanische Riviera und Mallorca<\/em>, publicat a Berl&iacute;n en 1929, es veu com encara hi havia conreu de ra&iuml;m en la zona del Baluard per aquells anys. Se sap que cap el 1927, per construir el monument del Cor de Jes&uacute;s en la part alta del castell, es van tallar totes les vinyes de l&rsquo;esplanada del Palau i es van plantar arbres per convertir-la en una mena de parc, si b&eacute; van quedar reductes de vinya en algunes parts del castell. Possiblement la fotografia de l&rsquo;escriptor alemany seria d&rsquo;aquella data.<\/p>\n<p>Amb plantes provinents de Pedreguer i El Poble Nou de Benitatxell, el moscatell ha tornat fa nom&eacute;s uns anys a les terrasses del castell situades sobre la vila vella. I sembla que l&rsquo;aclimatament de les plantes &eacute;s bo.<\/p>\n<p><strong>LA CIUTAT I LA PANSA<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; A difer&egrave;ncia d&rsquo;edicions passades, el cicle Temps de Pansa s&rsquo;endinsa en la ciutat i abandona el m&oacute;n rural. Hui dissabte i el diumenge 19 de setembre, l&rsquo;historiador Javier Calvo oferir&agrave; una visita guiada per con&eacute;ixer l&rsquo;arquitectura urbana en temps de pansa. A visita recalar&agrave; en edificis emblem&agrave;tics relacionats amb l&rsquo;elaboraci&oacute; i la comercialitzaci&oacute; de la pansa. Amb eixida des del Museu Etnol&ograve;gic, far&agrave; parada en l&rsquo;encreuament dels carrers Diana i La Mar, on estava l&rsquo;estudi de fotografia de Jos&eacute; Marsal Caballero; sens dubte, el fot&ograve;graf del primer ter&ccedil; del segle XX per excel&middot;l&egrave;ncia i qui deix&agrave; un llegat magn&iacute;fic per con&eacute;ixer la D&eacute;nia d&rsquo;aquells anys.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; La casa de Jos&eacute; Riera Vallalta, a la cantonada de Diana i Marqu&eacute;s de Campo, &eacute;s altra de les parades de la visita. La figura d&rsquo;este empresari ens serveix d&rsquo;exemple dels negocis lligats al m&oacute;n de la pansa que es desenrotllaren en aquell temps a la ciutat. Comerciant i propietari de tres factories de fusta, dos d&rsquo;elles a Gal&iacute;cia i altra al nord de Portugal, Riera tenia un negoci vinculat a la producci&oacute; de les caixes per a l&rsquo;emmagatzematge i transport de la pansa. La fusta que provenia de les f&agrave;briques esmentades era acabada de tractar a D&eacute;nia i amb ella es constru&iuml;en les caixetes, &ldquo;que en feia a milers&rdquo;, diu Gisbert.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Amb el carrer Diana com a eix de la visita, arribem a la cantonada amb el carrer La Via, on estava la serradora de Dom&eacute;nech. &Eacute;s sens dubte un dels edificis m&eacute;s importants de l&rsquo;arquitectura industrial de la ciutat. Data de primeries del segle XX i tenia protecci&oacute; integral en el cat&agrave;leg de patrimoni de 2004. A hores d&rsquo;ara, no t&eacute; cap protecci&oacute;, el seu estat no &eacute;s precisament el m&eacute;s desitjable i l&rsquo;edifici est&agrave; en venda.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; Fem uns passos enrere i ens detenim en l&rsquo;Hostal Comercio, al principi de Marqu&eacute;s de Campo. El grau de protecci&oacute; de l&rsquo;edifici, de 1888, &eacute;s tamb&eacute; inferior al que tenia en 2004; en estos moments nom&eacute;s est&agrave; protegida la fa&ccedil;ana i no la integritat de l&rsquo;immoble, com estava abans. Publicacions de l&rsquo;&egrave;poca el descriuen com una edificaci&oacute; important a nivell arquitect&ograve;nic i es destaca tamb&eacute; el pati d&rsquo;estil andal&uacute;s. L&rsquo;hostal va ser lloc de trobada habitual dels comerciants de la pansa.<\/p>\n<p>En este viatge a la D&eacute;nia de ceps, camisetes i randes no s&rsquo;ha de passar per alt el paper del ferrocarril i l&rsquo;estaci&oacute; de Val&egrave;ncia en el transport de mercaderies. Ni tampoc la pres&egrave;ncia de magatzems com l&rsquo;anomenat &lsquo;dels anglesos&rdquo;, potser un dels m&eacute;s populars. La Cooperativa Wholesale Society Limited (CWS), de Manchester, es va instal&middot;lar a D&eacute;nia a finals del segle XIX (1896) i va construir en la primera d&egrave;cada del segle XX l&rsquo;edifici de la Pla&ccedil;a del Convent, protegit en l&rsquo;actualitat -este s&iacute;-.<\/p>\n<p>Prop d&rsquo;all&iacute;, al carrer Sandunga i tamb&eacute; al carrer Fontanella, havia magatzems de pansa que guarden una interessant hist&ograve;ria darrere. Reconvertits despr&eacute;s en f&agrave;briques de joguet i tallers de ferro i altres, i conservats a l&rsquo;ombra dels alts edificis que s&rsquo;al&ccedil;arien al port en els anys 60, donarien per fer altra visita guiada.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; El nostre periple urb&agrave; de la pansa acaba en el Museu del Mar, davant del port. All&iacute;, atracats fora de la d&agrave;rsena per q&uuml;estions de calat, els grans vapors esperaven l&rsquo;arribada la pansa que havia sigut empaquetada als magatzems de D&eacute;nia. Les barcasses s&rsquo;encarregaven de fer-la aplegar a bord i des d&rsquo;all&iacute; els vaixells mamprenien rumb al seu dest&iacute;, principalment Anglaterra per&ograve; tamb&eacute; Fran&ccedil;a, Estats Units o el Canad&agrave;.<\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; En el Museu de la Mar es pot visitar una interessant col&middot;lecci&oacute; de fotografies de vapors ancorats en la part exterior del port. D&rsquo;aquell moll de la pansa queden pocs vestigis. El proc&eacute;s de transformaci&oacute; del port no ha respectat elements hist&ograve;rics com els norais o les pedres del moll, sepultades pel formig&oacute;.<\/p>\n<p><strong>LAS FOTOS DE JOS&Eacute; MARSAL<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; La figura del fot&ograve;graf Jos&eacute; Marsal Caballero centrar&agrave; la visita que tancar&agrave; el <em>Temps de Pansa 2021<\/em> dissabte 25 de setembre. Josep A. Gisbert parlar&agrave; de la col&middot;lecci&oacute; de fotos del cicle de la pansa que va fer el fot&ograve;graf denier. Probablement, segons explica l&rsquo;arque&ograve;leg, les imatges van estar captades cap a l&rsquo;any 1910. La subhasta d&rsquo;un element relacionat amb Marsal Caballero i qui probablement li fera l&rsquo;enc&agrave;rrec apunta que podria tractar-se de Jaime Morant Fourrad (1840-1914), propietari d&rsquo;una de les empreses comerciasl m&eacute;s importants del darrer quart del segle XIX. Es va dedicar a la comercialitzaci&oacute; de guano i despr&eacute;s a l&rsquo;exportaci&oacute; de pansa. En una de les camisetes impreses que decoraven les caixes apareixen diverses fotos de la col&middot;lecci&oacute;.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"&nbsp; &ldquo;L&rsquo;any 1906 l&rsquo;esplanada del castell i els bancals sobre la vila vella estaven plantats en un 90%&hellip;","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":27911,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"csco_display_header_overlay":false,"csco_singular_sidebar":"","csco_page_header_type":"","csco_page_load_nextpost":"","csco_post_video_location":[],"csco_post_video_location_hash":"","csco_post_video_url":"","csco_post_video_bg_start_time":0,"csco_post_video_bg_end_time":0,"footnotes":""},"categories":[40],"tags":[],"class_list":{"0":"post-41902","1":"post","2":"type-post","3":"status-publish","4":"format-standard","5":"has-post-thumbnail","7":"category-cultura","8":"cs-entry","9":"cs-video-wrap"},"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO Premium plugin v26.6 (Yoast SEO v27.3) - 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